Miles Shirt Jacket

The jacket that looks good everywhere

The Basics

Completed: November 2023

Time period worked on: October 13 to November 15, 2023

Cost to make: $57.00 CAD

Pattern: Miles Shirt Jacket

Designer: Ozetta

Size: XS

Yarn: Briggs & Little Sport in the colour Brown Heather; 113 g/393 m

Amount used: ~6 skeins (16 g remaining of 6th skein)

Needle size: 5.5 mm

Buttons purchased from Etsy shop "buttonboxleics" in Leicester, United Kingdom (size 21 mm)

Measurements

I washed and blocked my garment and only pinned to shape the bottom hem/ribbing. Everything else was laid flat to dry without pins.
I knit this to pattern for size XS ie) same number of stitches/rows except:
- I made my sleeves longer
- I used Italian bind-off instead of tubular bind-off
Any measurements that have a difference greater than 1" / 2.5 cm from the pattern's measurements will be noted below; otherwise, assume my garment measures the same as an XS (+/- 1"/2.5 cm).
My finished garment measurements:
- Chest Circumference: 41"/104 cm (5 cm smaller than pattern)
- Total Length: 26.5"/67 cm
- Underarm to bottom hem: 15"/39 cm
- Sleeve length from underarm: 19"/49 cm (this is 2"/6 cm longer than pattern)
- Cuff Circumference: 9"/24 cm (this is 2.75"/6 cm smaller than pattern)
- Upper sleeve circumference: 18"/47 cm
My body measurements are accessed via link below labelled “Mel’s body measurements”. I understand this information can cause harm to some, but are helpful to others. By having this information on a private page, the choice is yours whether you want to view this information or not.

Mel's body measurements

Finishing

I used the Brigg & Little yarn to sew the buttons on. I almost always use the knitting yarn out of sheer convenience as long as it’s not super bulky.
I used the “thread shank” method to create height/space below the button. I believe this helps to relieve any tension and allows the fabric layers to fit underneath the button nicely without looking like a tufted cushion (when buttoned up).
Italian bind-off was used for the cuffs, button band, and body ribbing.

The Pattern

Miles Shirt Jacket by Ozetta

Ravelry Pattern Page

Designer’s website

9 sizes offered: XS to 5XL

Finished Bust Circumference:
XS - 43" / 109 cm
S - 45.5" / 116 cm
M - 48" / 122 cm
L - 52" / 132 cm
XL - 56" / 142 cm
2XL - 60.5" / 154 cm
3XL - 64.5" / 164 cm
4XL - 67" / 170 cm
5XL - 71" / 180 cm

Taking into account the recommend positive ease built into the pattern of 11-12" / 28-30 cm, the sizes correspond to an actual bust circumference range of 32" to 60" / 80 cm to 152 cm.

Suggested yarn weight: Aran
Pattern gauge: 15 sts and 24 rows = 4 x 4" / 10 x 10 cm in stockinette st on larger needles, blocked
Suggested needles sizes: 6.0 mm and 5.0 mm

About the pattern

Skills/techniques/attributes:

Working flat and in-the-round
German short-rows
Drop-sleeve
Worked top-down
Crew-neck with collar
1x1 ribbing

The good:

I found this pattern to be straightforward and easy to follow and found no errors.
Includes schematic and detailed measurements of finished garment for all sizes
Instructions for special techniques provided via video support links
Tubular bind-off is suggested, but if you prefer a different bind-off there is a note to adjust accordingly.
I discovered a new left-leaning decrease (K2tog-L) and will be using that in future garments.

The not-so-good:

Falls short in the smaller end of being size inclusive with a chest circumference range of 32” to 60”.

My recommendations:

You will definitely need to wet block and pin to shape the body ribbing. It is quite curled from the short rows.
As this is called a "jacket", I recommend at least 10" of positive ease for layering. With 10" of positive ease, I am able to wear a sweatshirt underneath mine comfortably.
If you have long arms, you may need to lengthen the sleeves. I did not adjust the rate of decreases on mine and followed the rate as given in the pattern and then knit 2" more.
I am 5'6" / 168 cm and made no adjustments to total length. If you are taller, be sure to try on the jacket as extra length may be required. The extra length should be added before doing the short rows.
With respect to pocket placement, I did follow the instructions and placed them as per the pattern. However, I think due to my height and arm length, I think they could be placed a little lower. Again, something to consider if you are taller than me and also making size XS.

The Yarn

The yarn I used comes from Briggs & Little which is a yarn mill located on the east coast of Canada. They use 100% Canadian wool. Briggs & Little yarn is definitely a rustic yarn, but a real workhorse and quite durable in my opinion. If you're looking for something to use for a jacket or over-garment clothing, I would recommend Briggs & Little. It's under-rated and also very affordable!

The suggested yarn for the Miles Shirt Jacket is Wooldreamers Manchelopis. It comes double-stranded in plate form. It is unspun and I had heard it breaks relatively easily if you pull too hard. If you use the suggested yarn, there's no need to separate the strands and you can knit with it as is. Honestly, I couldn't even think off the top of my head if I had seen this yarn in stores or online during my many browsing sessions and didn't even want to put in the effort of finding the yarn. I was also trying to work through my stash. Then it dawned on me that I had Briggs & Little Sport yarn in my stash which is 1-ply. Not unspun, but I decided to hold it double and swatch. I had to go down a needle size but I was able to meet gauge and obtain a fabric I liked.

I wouldn't consider this yarn to be next-to-skin soft, but for a jacket, I think it's perfect. It feels durable, a bit like knit armour and it feels like it's going to be a great outdoor staple in my wardrobe. It is not a hairy yarn, so although it’s on the rough side, it is not prickly and doesn’t irritate my skin. Some pilling has occurred requiring minimal maintenance. Based on cost and availability, I would readily use it again.